Latvia – Where is everyone?

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‘Google’ is a dangerous thing – you really do not want to read the reports of driving habits and accident rates if you are setting off for the Baltic States… Be a “bit more Gary” and just take it all with a pinch of salt. Latvia is my new most favourite State, the main roads are well maintained and empty, other drivers give you room and I learnt a long time ago, as I plod along on the XT660, that if you just signal right and let them pass you they will generally always thank you. Turn off the tarmac and you are met with well graded gravel and hard pack and turn off again and you will get sand. Now I hate riding in sand, the adage of power, power, power (I just hear Clarkson when I say that) works well but falling over solo with 230kg of Yamaha and luggage never appeals. Latvia is a hidden gem, think rural French roads with a Swedish backdrop and there you have it. Give Latvia a chance – I loved it.

Latvia - Where is everyone?

Death-knell for a town

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The beginning of the end for Visaginas started at 01:23 on Saturday 26th April 1986. The death-knell for this town, which was created from virtually nothing by the eastern European USSR economy started with the destruction of reactor 4 at the Chernobyl RBMK Reactor. Originally Visaginas was simply a small collection of houses with a population of a few hundred, that grew to support the construction and operational teams that run Chernobyl’s sister plant at Ignalina. Swollen at its peak to almost 34,000 individuals, the four lane roads, the infrastructure and the support services needed to support working families and the 5000 individuals involved in the operation of the RBMK are now decaying. The present from the power plant to the town in 1975 was a giant granite boulder which symbolised the towns birth on 10th August. Wandering around the abandoned grounds, riding the half closed and empty roads and watching children play in abandoned playgrounds amongst the soviet style concrete block housing was a surreal moment.

The town that died

Narva Calling

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With a few weeks spare and eastern Europe still holding my heart, I headed off to Narva and the Baltic states. The roads here can be challenging, with little tarmac of the few main highways and a combination of hardpack and loose gravel and sand… oh how I hate sand. The XT660Z is an ideal bike for these trips, lightweight, long legged, a proven design, with a long 300+ mile range. I loaded up my Metal Mule panniers, shoved a few clothes into my dry bag and set off…

Buying Off Plan

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The CRF1000 Africa Twin has now gone back to Honda. My second foray into ownership via PCP and for once in my life it worked out to my advantage. Honda slashed the price of the new original CRF with the introduction of the Adventure Sports version which addressed the shortcomings I identified in my Overland Magazine review way back in 2016. The new bigger tank, metal grab rails for luggage fitment and more stainless to avoid the much complained about corrosion… it’s not a bad bike just soulless despite my attempts to love it. Trying to part exchange the bike with 32,000 km on the clock was met with cries of derision ‘that much mileage’, and a slashed baseline price, heavy dealer discounts and service and luggage offers meant that no one wanted a high mileage 2nd hand bike. Along come Honda and the PCP promise – they collect the bike and I walk away, albeit with a small excess mileage charge. So what is going to take the place of the CRF? My original 260,000 km R1150GSA is with Cardiff Motorrad getting off a SORN and the XT660Z Tenere is getting a suspension overhaul at PDQ Motorcycle Developments in Slough. I am tempted by the XT700Z Tenere but its tank is too small and buying again off plan like the CRF is not for me – I will wait for 3 years until Yamaha bring out the refined touring version of the new twin and then maybe dip my toe in the water.

Yamaha T7 Tenere 700

Mamerki – and as Gareth knows I love a good conspiracy…

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But today I had four. In a bunker, hidden deep in the woods of NE Poland, the site of some secret WW2 activities that, wait for it, included;

  1. The supposed site of the plundered amber room, worth half a billion at today’s prices. All we know is that after the war, the Amber Room was never seen in public again, this compounded by the destruction in 1968 of Königsberg Castle suggests it “has to be out there”.
  2. Die Glocke, which means “The Bell” and according to some researchers, was supposed to be a prototype of a machine for controlling magnetic field and gravitation, enabling the Nazis to journey in time.
  3. The UFO project, where the Germans flew a saucer shaped craft (Haunebu III) to carry 40 troops and fly and Mach 10 in silence. Not surprisingly it was a secret weapon of the Third Reich (Wunderwaffe).
  4. And lastly, a secret subterranean complex for the construction of U Boats that then allowed onward transport via a series of interconnected locks via the Mazurian Canal leading to the Baltic sea and overcoming the 110 meter drop.

All I know is these bunkers are pretty amazing, massive structures that are slowly being reclaimed by nature and won’t be moved in a hurry, and remember as Michael Barkun says, conspiracy theories rely on the view that the universe is governed by design, and embody three principles; nothing happens by accident, nothing is as it seems, and everything is connected.

Mamerki Bunkers

I nearly made a mistake today

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Made a mistake today. I forgot the tell my Garmin that I wanted to avoid “roads that are flooded by incoming tides”…

So there I am merrily making my waywhen I get to my road only to find the incoming tide has covered it up and it will remain covered for 6 hours. Helpful locals had marked the route with tree branches stuck in the sand / mud and the sea tractor that normally makes the run does not operate at the weekends.

There was some encouragement to “give it a go” in various Cyrillic accents but thankfully I left my stupid head at home.

Flooded Road